Puglia Coastal Drive (Salento)

The Puglia Coastal Drive around the Salento peninsula is the Mediterranean road trip in its purest form — flat, sun-drenched, and bordered by water of extraordinary transparency. Salento is the very tip of the heel of Italy's boot, a limestone plateau pressed between the Adriatic Sea to the east and the Ionian Sea to the west, and the 180-kilometre loop from Lecce through Otranto, around the tip at Santa Maria di Leuca, and back up to Gallipoli passes between these two distinct coastlines with entirely different characters. The Adriatic side is rockier, with cliffs and sea caves; the Ionian side is sandier and wilder, with beaches backed by dunes and ancient pine forests. Both are extraordinary.

The route begins in Lecce, the Baroque capital of Salento and one of the most beautiful cities in southern Italy. Built almost entirely of local golden sandstone (pietra leccese), its churches and palazzi are encrusted with elaborately carved decoration — saints, cherubs, flowers, and monsters — in a profusion that makes even Rome look restrained. Allow a full day for Lecce before starting the coastal circuit. Otranto, on the Adriatic coast, is the next major stop: a walled city with a magnificent Norman cathedral whose mosaic floor, created in 1165, is the largest in the world and tells the entire medieval universe in stone and glass. The town itself is charming, with a fishing harbour and castle overlooking the Strait of Otranto.

For a VW T3, the Salento is an unqualified delight. The terrain is essentially flat throughout — this is limestone karst country with virtually no elevation change — and the roads, while not always wide, are smooth and manageable. You can drive long stretches without needing to change below third gear, and the light, open landscape means you can always see what is coming. Parking beside beaches and in coastal villages is generally straightforward outside high season. The van's sliding door comes into its own here: park beside a cove, open up, and the Mediterranean is your living room.

The best months for the Salento drive are May, June, and September. The sea is warm enough for swimming, the crowds are manageable, and the strong summer heat is moderated by coastal breezes. July and August bring enormous numbers of Italian holidaymakers and the roads, beaches, and towns become genuinely crowded. October remains pleasant and the sea retains its warmth into the early weeks. The Salento is perfectly driveable year-round given its Mediterranean climate, and even in winter it offers the pleasure of empty coastal roads and mild sunny days.