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A deep journey into the 'Green Roof of Europe'. This route leads through the Šumava National Park, one of the largest continuous forest areas in Central Europe. You'll drive through dense spruce forests, past glacial lakes like Černé jezero, and along the cold Vltava river. The terrain is hilly and mountainous, typical for Central European highlands, but beautifully paved and perfect for a slow, oxygen-rich cruising experience.
The Šumava National Park, known as the "Green Roof of Europe," forms one of the largest continuous forest ecosystems in Central Europe. This 120-kilometre journey from Železná Ruda on the German border to the Lipno reservoir traces the backbone of Bohemia, through a landscape shaped by glaciers, spruce forests, and centuries of isolation. The Iron Curtain once ran through these woods, and that enforced emptiness preserved the wild character that draws travellers today. The forests here are among the oldest in Central Europe, and the silence between the trees is almost physical.
The route's highlights begin at Černé jezero (Black Lake), the largest and deepest glacial lake in the Bohemian Forest, its dark waters reflecting the surrounding cliffs. Further south, the Boubín Virgin Forest contains spruce, beech, and fir trees that have never been felled, some of them over 400 years old. This UNESCO-recognised reserve is one of the last places in Central Europe to feel genuinely primeval. The Vltava river, which flows through Prague far to the north, rises quietly in these highlands as a narrow brook you can step across.
For VW T3 owners, this route is an ideal long-distance run. The roads are well-maintained two-lane highways and secondary roads with gentle gradients throughout. The highest point barely exceeds 1,000 metres, and the climbs are long and steady rather than sharp. There are no dramatic hairpins. The engine can breathe, and the pace is naturally slow because the scenery demands it. Parking areas near the lakes are generous, and many allow overnight stays for self-contained camper vans.
The best seasons are late spring and early autumn. In May and June, the forest floor is carpeted with wildflowers and the lakes are mirror-still. September and October bring amber light and almost no tourists, making it the single finest time to drive this route. Midsummer is busier near Lipno reservoir, which has developed into a popular Czech holiday destination with bike paths and a beach. Avoid January through March if your van lacks adequate heating, as temperatures regularly fall to minus fifteen degrees and some secondary roads are left unploughed.
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The largest and deepest glacial lake in the Bohemian Forest, surrounded by dark spruce forests and steep cliffs.
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A unique primeval forest with trees up to 400 years old, offering a glimpse into Europe's ancient landscape.
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Known as the 'South Bohemian Sea', offering beautiful lakeside drives and camping spots.