Bohemian Forest (Šumava) Route

The Šumava National Park, known as the "Green Roof of Europe," forms one of the largest continuous forest ecosystems in Central Europe. This 147-kilometre journey from Železná Ruda on the German border to the Lipno reservoir traces the backbone of Bohemia, through a landscape shaped by glaciers, spruce forests, and centuries of isolation. The Iron Curtain once ran through these woods, and that enforced emptiness preserved the wild character that draws travellers today. The forests here are among the oldest in Central Europe, and the silence between the trees is almost physical.

The route's highlights begin at Černé jezero (Black Lake), the largest and deepest glacial lake in the Bohemian Forest, its dark waters reflecting the surrounding cliffs. Further south, the Boubín Virgin Forest contains spruce, beech, and fir trees that have never been felled, some of them over 400 years old. This national nature reserve within the Šumava UNESCO Biosphere Reserve is one of the last places in Central Europe to feel genuinely primeval. The Vltava river, which flows through Prague far to the north, rises quietly in these highlands as a narrow brook you can step across.

For older and low-power campervan drivers, this route is an ideal long-distance run. The roads are well-maintained two-lane highways and secondary roads with gentle gradients throughout. The highest point barely exceeds 1,000 metres, and the climbs are long and steady rather than sharp. There are no dramatic hairpins. The engine can breathe, and the pace is naturally slow because the scenery demands it. Day parking near the lakes is often generous; overnight only at Autokemp or clearly signed camper sites — wild camping in the national park is illegal.

The best seasons are late spring and early autumn. In May and June, the forest floor is carpeted with wildflowers and the lakes are mirror-still. September and October bring amber light and almost no tourists, making it the single finest time to drive this route. Midsummer is busier near Lipno reservoir, which has developed into a popular Czech holiday destination with bike paths and a beach. Avoid January through March if your van lacks adequate heating, as temperatures regularly fall to minus fifteen degrees and some secondary roads are left unploughed.

Practical tip for classic and low-power campervans: fill fuel in Železná Ruda or Volary before the quieter forest stretches — gaps between stations can reach 30–40 km. Stick to Autokemp sites (Kvilda, Lipno) rather than lake car parks after dark. Secondary roads here skip the motorway vignette; you only need the e-dálniční známka if you join a dálnice. Cool mornings in May and September keep engines happier than midday August heat near Lipno’s holiday traffic. If you detour toward Boubín, park at the marked trailhead and walk — do not drive forest tracks into the reserve core.

Pair the drive with a short walk to Černé jezero’s shore path when conditions allow, then continue south toward the young Vltava meadows. The Iron Curtain history is still readable in empty border clearings and quiet villages that once sat in the restricted zone. Take your time: this is a two-to-three-day route at 50–60 km/h average, not a transit dash. Carry cash crowns for small Autokemps and village shops; card acceptance thins outside the main resorts.