Bohemian Paradise (Český ráj)

Český ráj, meaning Bohemian Paradise, was the first protected landscape area in Czechoslovakia, designated in 1955. This compact 45-kilometre loop between Turnov and Jičín packs an extraordinary density of geological and historical wonders into a small area. The landscape is the result of tens of millions of years of sandstone deposition, water erosion, and volcanic intrusion, producing a mosaic of vertical rock towers, labyrinthine passages, pond-dotted meadows, and hilltop castle ruins that genuinely look like something from a Brothers Grimm illustration.

The jewel of the route is Trosky Castle, whose two gothic towers—called Baba (the Old Woman) and Panna (the Virgin)—rise from two separate volcanic basalt plugs that have been eroding around them for millennia. The effect is surreal: medieval masonry fused with raw geology. Nearby, the Prachov Rocks form a dense maze of sandstone pillars up to 60 metres tall, connected by narrow paths and iron staircases. The Hrubá Skála chateau, a Renaissance building perched directly on top of a sandstone massif, completes the trio of must-sees.

For a VW T3, this is a delightful route with no serious challenges. The roads are mostly two-lane country roads through pine forests and small agricultural villages, with only modest elevation changes. The area around Turnov is relatively flat, and even the climbs toward the rock formations are gentle. Parking at all major attractions is available, though the car parks at Prachov Rocks fill early on summer weekends. The route is short enough to complete in a single relaxed day, but two days allows time to walk the trails and visit the interiors of the castles.

Spring and autumn are the finest seasons. April and May bring flowering meadows between the rock towers, and the low angle of the morning sun throws long shadows across the sandstone faces, making photography exceptional. October turns the surrounding forests amber and gold. Summer is popular with Czech families, particularly in July and August, but the region never feels overwhelmed. Winter visits are possible and can be magical after snowfall, though some castle paths may be icy. This is a compact, walkable, culturally rich route that rewards slow travel above all else.