Romantic Rhine

The 65-kilometre stretch of the Middle Rhine Valley between Koblenz and Bingen is one of Europe's great short drives — and a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2002. In this compressed distance, the Rhine squeezes through a gorge flanked by forty castles, the legendary Loreley Rock, terraced vineyard slopes producing world-class Rieslings, and a succession of medieval river towns so perfectly preserved they feel like film sets. For slow travellers with a low-powered vehicle, this is pure pleasure: the B9 on the west bank is flat, historic, and punctuated by so many reasons to stop that 65km can easily fill two leisurely days.

The route begins at Koblenz's famous Deutsches Eck (German Corner), where the Mosel flows into the Rhine and a giant equestrian statue of Kaiser Wilhelm I commands the confluence. The Electoral Palace, the Basilica of St. Castor, and the massive Ehrenbreitstein Fortress across the river (reached by cable car) make Koblenz a worthy start to any journey. From here, the B9 hugs the left bank south, with the Rhine and its parade of passenger ships and barges always alongside.

The Marksburg at Braubach is the most important stop north of the Loreley: the only Rhine castle never destroyed in war and never turned into a romantic ruin. It still looks exactly as a medieval Rhine fortress should, with towers, battlements, and a working drawbridge. Further south, at St. Goarshausen, the legendary Loreley Slate Rock rises 132 metres above the river at its narrowest and most treacherous point. The legend of a beautiful siren luring sailors to their doom on the rocks below was invented by the Romantic poet Clemens Brentano in 1801 — barely a story, really, but the outcropping is magnificent regardless. The visitor centre at the summit is reached via a winding road (not for large vans — take the bus or walk instead).

Bacharach is perhaps the most charming stop: a small walled town where the medieval gate tower, the ruined Werner Chapel perched on the hillside above, and the wine cooperatives along the main street all compose a picture of extraordinary completeness. The Postenturm (watch tower) at the end of Bacharach's wall walk offers a river view that photographers return to repeatedly. Closing the route in Bingen am Rhein, the Mäuseturm (Mouse Tower) stands on a small island in the river — another legend-encrusted structure where a tyrannical bishop allegedly met his end.

For van drivers, the key decision is which bank to take. The B9 on the left (west) bank is flatter and connects all the major towns directly. The right (east) bank road (B42) is also flat but requires ferry crossings to visit the west bank towns. Taking both — crossing at Boppard and returning at St. Goar — gives you the full picture and some scenic ferry moments. The towns of Bacharach and Boppard have Wohnmobil-Stellplätze directly by the river. Note that the main road runs directly through most town centres, with narrow gaps and low-hanging timber-frame buildings — take it slowly and check height.