Silvretta High Alpine Road

The Silvretta High Alpine Road — known in Austria as the Traumstraße der Alpen, the Dream Road of the Alps — is one of the most dramatic and rewarding high-mountain drives in the entire country. Stretching just 22 kilometres between the valley village of Partenen in Vorarlberg and the ski resort of Galtür in Tyrol, the road punches far above its weight in terms of scenery. Constructed between 1930 and 1954, it was built as a toll road to fund the construction and operation of the Silvretta hydroelectric reservoir system. The engineers who carved this route into the mountain face delivered not only infrastructure but one of the great scenic experiences of the Eastern Alps.

The centrepiece of the route is the Bielerhöhe, a saddle at 2,032 metres where the road crests beside the turquoise Silvretta Reservoir. The lake — its colour an almost impossibly vivid blue-green — sits directly beneath the Piz Buin, the highest peak in Vorarlberg at 3,312 metres and the mountain that gave the famous sun cream its name. On clear days, the glacier that drapes the upper slopes of the Piz Buin is reflected in the still water, creating a scene of almost cinematic grandeur. The 34 hairpins of the eastern ramp, numbered and clearly signed, wind upward through open alpine meadows past old farm buildings and waterfalls tumbling from the snowfields above.

For a VW T3, the Silvretta is a genuine test of mechanical patience and careful preparation. The road is excellently maintained, wider than many Austrian passes, and without the truly extreme gradients of the Grossglockner — but it is still steep and winding, and the climb will demand first and second gear for extended stretches. Monitor your engine temperature closely and use the many lay-bys and viewpoints as natural rest stops. The brakes need equal care on the descent: use engine braking generously and do not ride the pedal. Allow at least half a day for the crossing, and consider spending time at the Bielerhöhe itself, where there is a small restaurant and walking access to the lakeshore.

The road is typically open from late May or early June until late October or early November, depending on snowfall. The toll applies in both directions. The shoulder seasons — June when the alpine flowers are at their peak, or September when the crowds thin and the colours shift — offer the finest experience. July and August bring motorcyclists and sports cars in numbers, and parking at the Bielerhöhe can be crowded by midday. An early morning start from Partenen rewards you with the lake in morning shadow gradually warming to full sun, and the surrounding peaks free of haze.