Cabo de Gata–Níjar

Sixty kilometres from Almería to San José trace the edge of Cabo de Gata-Níjar Natural Park — Europe's largest coastal desert, where volcanic ridges fall into a turquoise Mediterranean and beaches appear from nowhere between agave scrub and black lava flows. The driving is mostly flat along the AL-5100 and coastal tracks, making this one of the gentlest southern Spain routes for a VW T3: no mountain passes, long sightlines, and enough beach pull-offs that a low-horsepower engine never struggles. Allow one to two days — enough for a dawn swim at Los Genoveses and an afternoon exploring fishing coves without treating the park as a checklist.

The landscape reads like geology laid bare: ochre cliffs at Cabo de Gata lighthouse mark the park's eastern tip, while inland caldera rims and fossil dunes surround abandoned mining villages that once supplied alum to Roman ships. San José is the park's informal capital — a whitewashed harbour where restaurants serve grilled espeto sardines and kayakers launch toward hidden calas only reachable from the sea. Playa de los Genoveses and Monsul beach, both accessed via signed dirt roads from the main route, rank among Andalusia's finest sand arcs, though summer parking fills by mid-morning and height restrictions on some lanes exclude the tallest motorhomes.

Campervan travellers should respect strict park rules. Wild camping and overnight parking on beaches are prohibited — use the San José municipal área de autocaravanas or official campgrounds at Las Negras and Cabo de Gata village. Dirt access roads to beaches are sandy after rain; deflate tyres slightly only if you know the track, otherwise park at the surfaced lot and walk. Almería city offers fuel, LPG, and supermarket resupply before entering the park; services inside the reserve are limited to village shops. Fresh water points exist at San José and Las Negras aires; dump stations are sparse — plan disposal in Almería if your tank fills.

Spring and autumn deliver the best balance: warm enough for swimming from April, wildflowers on volcanic slopes in March, and empty beaches in October when the heat retreats but the sea stays swimmable. Summer brings fierce afternoon sun and crowded Genoveses — arrive before 9am or accept a long walk from peripheral parking. Winter is mild and uncrowded, ideal for coastal hiking on the sendero litoral, though some beach bars close from November. One day covers the lighthouse loop and San José; add a second for Monsul, snorkelling at Cala de Enmedio, and a sunset above the salt flats near Cabo de Gata.