The Road of a Hundred Turns

Droga Stu Zakrętów (The Road of a Hundred Turns), officially Voivodeship Road 387, is one of Poland's most famous and thrilling mountain drives. Snaking for 22 kilometers between the spa town of Kudowa-Zdrój and the historic town of Radków, the route climbs deep into the Stołowe Mountains (Table Mountains) National Park in southwestern Poland, close to the Czech border. The road was constructed in the late 19th century under Prussian rule, and its engineering is a marvel of its time: it is cut directly into vertical sandstone cliffs, with massive retaining walls built from local red sandstone holding up sections of the road above deep wooded gorges. The name is no exaggeration — the route is a continuous ribbon of tight bends, switchbacks, and hairpin turns that wind through a dense, primeval forest of pine and beech.

For classic van owners, the Road of a Hundred Turns is a test of steering, braking, and patience. The climb from Kudowa-Zdrój starts immediately, rising several hundred meters to the high plateau at Karłów. The road is narrow, shaded by overhanging trees, and bordered by sheer rock faces. The gradients on the climbs reach 8-10%, which will require a classic van like the VW T3 to drop into second gear. The descent towards Radków is even more dramatic, featuring the famous 'pillars of Radków' (Radkowskie Skały) — towering sandstone rock columns that rise vertically beside the road, their tops crowned with pine trees. Take this section slowly: the switchbacks are extremely tight, and visibility around the bends is limited. Ensure your brakes are in perfect condition and use engine braking to control your descent.

The landscape surrounding the road is unique in Poland: the Stołowe Mountains are a rare example of plated mountains in Europe, characterized by flat sand layers that have been eroded over millions of years into bizarre rock labyrinths, mushroom-shaped rock formations, and deep crevasses. Karłów, a tiny mountain settlement at the midpoint of the route, is the starting trailhead for hiking to Szczeliniec Wielki (919m), the highest peak in the range. Climbing the 665 stone steps to the summit leads to a magnificent rock labyrinth where hikers can squeeze through narrow crevasses and look out from panoramic viewing platforms. Another highlight is the Błędne Skały (Errant Rocks) labyrinth, a natural maze of rocks that served as a filming location for fantasy movies. Wild camping is strictly prohibited within the national park, but there are excellent camper-friendly campsites in Kudowa-Zdrój and Radków.